Acquiring, Storing, and Using Essential Oils

 

HOW ARE ESSENTIAL OILS PRODUCED?

There are several different methods for extracting essential oils. Most extraction techniques rely on the fact that most essential oils blend well with other oils and fats, certain solvents, and even alcohol, but they do not mix with water. Over the years, herbalists and essential oils manufacturers have determined which methods work best for each plant, depending on that plant’s unique chemical signature.

Expression

Expression is the most direct method for producing essential oils. In expression, the oil is simply pressed from the plant’s seeds, flesh, or skins in a process similar to that used to press olive oil. This technique is primarily used to obtain essential oils from citrus peels: lemon , orange, grapefruit , and lime .

Solvents

Employing chemical solvents is the least natural method for extracting essential oils, and many professional aromatherapists shy away from oils produced in this manner. Although all the solvents used for extraction are supposed to be removed, some light chemical traces could potentially taint the finished product.

In this method, the plant from which the essential oil is sourced is dissolved in a chemical solvent: benzene, methylene chloride, and hexane are some common ones. As solvents have lower boiling points than essential oils, they are evaporated off, leaving the essential oil behind. A vacuum or centrifuge is typically employed to help separate the solvent from the essential oil.

Essential oils extracted with solvents are called “absolutes.” Vanilla and jasmine essential oils are often produced this way as they cannot be distilled, and rose otto essential oil is often produced via solvent extraction because it is less expensive to produce when this method is used.

Hypercritical Carbon Dioxide

One of the newest methods for producing essential oils relies on plant interaction with carbon dioxide. Although producing essential oils this way is prohibitively expensive, the results are delightful. Essential oils produced using the carbon dioxide method smell almost exactly like the plants they were sourced from. Carbon dioxide becomes hypercritical—meaning it is neither a true gas nor a true liquid—at 33 degrees Celsius (91.4 degrees Fahrenheit). Extraction occurs rapidly with this method, and as carbon dioxide is inert, there is no chemical interaction between it and the plant from which the essential oil is being extracted.

Essential oils extracted with the help of carbon dioxide tend to be extremely high quality , and it is possible to find nearly any popular essential oil produced using this method. There are two different types to look for: CO2 selects, and CO2 totals.

CO2 selects can be poured, just like other essential oils. They are typically a bit more viscous than oils produced using other methods; however, the plant’s waxes, color compounds, and resins are left behind during processing.

CO2 totals are extracted at higher pressures and contain the waxes, color compounds, and resins that are typically left behind during the essential oil manufacturing process. They usually have a thick, pasty consistency; however, they can be gently heated and blended with other essential oils and with carrier oils .

Steam Distillation

Most plants from which pure essential oils are obtained stand up well to the steam distillation process. In this simple procedure, freshly harvested plants are suspended above a vat of boiling water, and the steam emerging from the water extracts the oils from the plant. A vessel catches the rising steam, which is pushed through a tube before being cooled. The steam then condenses back into water, and as essential oils do not mix with water, the two substances separate. The essential oil is collected, and in many cases, the remaining water is collected as well, since it retains the fragrant character of the essential oil. This water is referred to as hydrosol and is often used in moisturizers, linen sprays, and simple perfumes.

Enfleurage

A very old method for producing essential oils that is rarely used in areas other than France, enfleurage is an expensive and complicated process. Whole blossoms are laid out on sheets coated with warm vegetable oil that in turn absorbs the oils from the flowers. As the oils are bled from the blossoms, exhausted flowers are replaced with fresh ones until all the oil has been infused with fragrance. The essential oil is then separated from the oil.

Hot enfl eurage is the oldest-known method for extracting essential

oils. This labor-intensive process involves melting fat (historically, pork lard or beef tallow) and stirring in botanical matter.  As the fl owers, leaves, and berries release their fragrance into the oil, spent botanicals are strained out and replaced with fresh ones. The resulting product is called enfl eurage pomade.  After essential oils have been extracted from the mixture with alcohol, the remaining fat is usually used to make soap, as it is normally quite fragrant.

ALL ESSENTIAL OILS ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL

There are many factors that determine essential oil quality . For example, plant species, extraction techniques, and even growing conditions, including soil quality, cloud cover, and environmental temperature, can affect the plants from which essential oils are extracted.

There are three characteristics crucial to determining the quality of a particular essential oil: grade , purity, and integrity .

Grade

When essential oils are produced, they are graded in the same way many other products are. The higher the grade is, the more costly the essential oil will be. For example, there are four grades of lemon essential oil, and at least twelve grades of lavender oil.

Grade is not necessarily an indicator that one type of essential oil is superior to another; in fact, the process of grading is quite subjective. Essential oils are very much like fine wines in that even seasoned experts have difficulty agreeing on favorites.

Often, grading is conducted as a method for specifying which types of essential oils are best for a specific use. For example, peppermint oil designated for delivery to candy manufacturers is graded differently that peppermint oil designated for aromatherapy use. Both grades are perfectly acceptable.

Once you have gained some experience in using essential oils on a regular basis, you will find that more expensive, higher-grade essential oil tends to have a more complex fragrance than lower grades do. As a rule, the more complex the fragrance, the more aromatic compounds an essential oil will contain.

Purity

When purchasing essential oils, particularly those you plan to use for aromatherapy, natural healing, or in cosmetics, it is vital that you look for pure essential oils. Unfortunately, some manufacturers and retailers dilute essential oils—particularly the most expensive ones—with similar-smelling essential oils, carrier oils , vegetable oils, alcohol, or solvents that might not even be

derived from plants. When this is done, the resulting product is not capable of delivering the expected results.

Integrity

When essential oil manufacturers and retailers refer to a certain essential oil’s integrity , they are referring to the fact that the oil comes from a single plant species, often from the same region, and often from the same harvest. In addition, integrity indicates that an essential oil is pure and natural.

Essential oils with integrity are not created in laboratories, nor are they created with other similar-smelling oils. An oil without integrity also might contain pure essential oils; for example, inexpensive citronella and lemongrass oils are often labeled as much more expensive lemon balm (Melissa ) oil.

Detecting adulterated product is fairly simple. Oils that have been

cut with alcohol tend to have an alcoholic odor; those that have been diluted with vegetable oils will separate when frozen. You can also detect carrier oil by placing a tiny drop of an essential oil on a sheet of white paper. If, after a few days, there is still an oily spot on the paper and the fragrance of the essential oil has evaporated, the oil you’re testing has likely been diluted with a carrier oil.

BUYING AND STORING ESSENTIAL OILS

Purchasing your essential oils from a respected retailer is a good way to ensure that you are getting exactly what you need rather than a cheap, ineffective substitute. Dishonest sellers frequently label essential oils as “pure” when in fact exactly the opposite is true.

Selecting a Good Source

Until you gain the experience needed to discern high-quality essential oils from synthetics or cheap blends, the most important aspect of purchasing essential oils is the source. Some companies consistently sell high-quality

essential oils, while others sell shoddy imitations. Though you might think that price is a good indicator of an essential oil’s quality, this is not necessarily true.

Some companies use fancy packaging and advertise heavily; while a few of these companies do sell high-quality essential oils, many are more interested in selling nicely scented oils than therapeutic ones. At many retail locations with essential oils for sale, there is often nothing to rely on but labeling to determine whether an essential oil is worthwhile.

That said, you’ll find essential oils as well as supplies (including diffusers and carrier oils) at natural food stores and on skin care and aromatherapy websites, as well as on auction sites and in large online marketplaces. Before making a purchase, do your best to learn about the seller’s reputation. If you are buying essential oils online, be sure you know what you want, as you will not have an opportunity to sniff-test the oils before purchasing them. (See Additional Resources for a list of reputable retailers).

Price Differences

There is quite a bit of variability in the prices of essential oils, mostly because some are much more expensive to produce than others. For example, rose otto essential oil from Bulgaria is among the most costly; this is because it takes approximately six hundred pounds of rose petals to make just one ounce of pure rose otto essential oil. These delicate flowers must be cultivated with care and maintained with delicate precision. In Bulgaria, they are handpicked each morning before the sun’s rays have a chance to release the fragrant oils of the roses into the air.

Jasmine essential oil is also very expensive, as it takes approximately twenty days of labor to produce a single ounce of jasmine oil. The delicate plants must be carefully tended and the tiny star-shaped flowers must be picked by hand—the exact opposite of what happens with an inexpensive essential oil such as mint . Mint grows in prolific abundance in many places and does not require much care. It can be harvested rapidly with farm equipment, and it contains an abundance of essential oil.

Purchasing cheap essential oils may cost you more in the longrun. Low-quality oils are typically weaker than their high-quality counterparts, meaning you will end up using more to achieve the same effect. Taking this into consideration may help you save money over time.

Storing Essential Oils

Once you have chosen essential oils, it is vital that you store them properly. Always store essential oils in glass containers rather than in plastic ones. This is because many essential oils are so potent that they have a tendency to cause plastic to begin dissolving. Not only does this cause bottles to feel sticky, it can cause harmful chemicals to leach from the plastic into the oils. Store eyedroppers separately from essential oils, too, since their rubber bulbs and seals can be adversely affected by the oils just as plastic bottles can.

Properly stored, most essential oils will last for several years; in fact, several types are much like valuable wines in that they actually improve with age. Patchouli that has been properly stored for several years develops a rich fragrance that is nothing like fresh patchouli oil. Benzoin, clary sage , vetiver , and sandalwood also improve with age.

Citrus essential oils, including orange, lemon , and grapefruit , have a tendency to lose their potency over time. They last longer when refrigerated in dark-colored glass containers.

No matter what type of essential oils you prefer, keep them away from direct sunlight and store them well away from heat sources, since both sunlight and heat can cause them to lose their potency.

SAFETY TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS

While some essential oils are suitable for ingestion, others are safe only for topical application or for use in aromatherapy. Besides using the following general guidelines and precautions, keep all essential oils out of reach of children and pets , and never apply concentrated essential oils to mucous membranes or sensitive areas. Also, if you are allergic to a certain food, do not use any essential oils or carrier oils that come from the same plant as the allergen.

Conduct a Patch Test

Never assume that an essential oil has the same properties as the plant it came from. Even if you are familiar with certain plants and have used them in the past, conduct a patch test prior to using a new essential oil. To do this, apply a little diluted essential oil to your inner arm. Watch carefully for redness or irritation that develops either immediately or within as long as twenty-four hours; if it occurs, do not use the essential oil.

Your Skin and Essential Oils

Essential oils should rarely be applied neat (undiluted). Some, including those sourced from conifer and citrus trees, have strong caustic characteristics and come with warnings concerning dilution rates. Follow instructions carefully to avoid chemical burns .

People with sensitive skin or allergies must be doubly cautious when using essential oils. The least sensitive skin of the body is located on the soles of the feet, so using essential oils here will be less likely to produce irritation. Once you have used a particular oil on the soles of your feet without any problems, try using a small amount elsewhere on your body to determine if you can enjoy using it for more extensive topical application.

Everyone should use caution when applying essential oils to skin that has come into contact with cleaners or personal care products that contain synthetic chemicals. Many petrochemical-based products penetrate the skin and underlying fatty tissue; these chemicals can remain in the skin for days to weeks after application. When essential oils interact with these chemicals, nausea , skin irritation, headaches , and other unpleasant side effects can occur.

Essential oils can sometimes react with pollutants that have built up in the body from chemicals in the water we drink, the food we consume, and the environment we inhabit. If you experience any type of adverse reaction whatsoever, stop using essential oils and seek medical attention if needed.

Many people choose to undergo internal detoxification cleanses before starting an aromatherapy regimen. Simply doubling your water intake can help clear your body of toxins; drink purified water and avoid consuming water from plastic bottles.

Essential Oils and Sun Safety

Some essential oils, including bergamot , petitgrain , and most citrus oils, are phototoxic , meaning that skin irritation resembling a severe sunburn can result when these oils are applied to skin that is then exposed to sunlight. Do not apply them to skin that will be exposed to direct sunlight anytime within forty-eight hours of application.

In Case of an Accident Involving Essential Oils 
To remove unwanted essential oils from the skin , cover the area with a carrier oil or an oil-based cleanser. Wash the area with soap and warm water, and repeat until you are certain the oil has been removed.

If essential oil gets into the eyes , flush them with vegetable oil or cold milk to dilute the oil, ensuring you remove contact lenses first if applicable. If stinging persists for more than a few minutes, seek medical attention.